Day 47 Whiskey Grove to Pine Dale (9/7): 35 miles/725 ft

It's always an exciting day when you're going to town. Food, Internet, and perhaps a shower and maybe clean clothes. Today we are headed for Pinedale, the portal to the Wind River mountain range. It's a cowboy town or more accurately it should be known as a mountain man town. We went to the Mountain …

Day 46 Lava Mountain to Whiskey Grove Campground (9/6): 55 miles/3,800 ft

Wow what a day! The route was long and difficult almost all on gravel. The roads terrible washboards and rocky with a lot of climbing. I rode the route like a drunk cyclist searching for a smooth patch of road to ride weaving back and forth. This route could break you if you let it. …

Day 45 Coulter Bay to Lava Mountain (9/5): 51 miles/3,624 ft

Leaving the Grand Tetons was hard. I wanted to stay longer and visit Jenny Lake and go to Jackson. We will be back though. I just learned that the Ikon ski pass includes days at Squaw Valley, Alpine, and Mammoth in California, Jackson in Wyoming, Big Sky in Montana, Steamboat in Colorado, plus a resort …

Day 44 Flagg Ranch to Coulter Bay (9/4): 19.2 miles/1,105 ft

Remember Aimee and Clay who we met in Canada on Spray Lakes road and who we rode trailing for a few days? Their posse also included Mike and Rich. They both are rangers in the Grand Tetons and invited us to stay with them when we are passing through. Their house is on the Divide …

Day 43 Warm River, ID to Flagg Ranch, WY (9/2): 47.3 miles/3,472 ft

We are a day away from the Tetons and today we'll get a glimpse of the western side of the mountain range. The Tetons are one of my favorite mountain ranges in North America. They are very distinctive and commanding and I could look at them all day long in wonderment. I think back when …

Day 42 Island Park to Warm River (9/1): 40.7 miles/1,056 ft

It seems in Idaho that the populace has every opportunity that enjoy off road vehicles. There are many two track roads that parallel the highway and it seems that all gravel roads are open to off road vehicles. It's great and I think how fun it would be to ride an ATV or an off …

Day 41 Red Rock Lakes, MT to Island Park, ID (9/1): 29.2 miles/1,105 ft

Today we left Montana and crossed into Idaho. I love Montana for its rugged landscape. There are many mountain ranges and rivers that are not over developed. It's the fourth largest state, which I did not know, with only 1 million people. As we were told by a local woman in Bannack, "we are welcomed …

Day 40 Lima to Red Rock Lakes (8/31): 57 miles/1,988 ft

Life spills into the Divide...today was the funeral of Senator McCain from Arizona. I watched his casket procession to lie in state at the Capitol this morning. It was an elegant well executed procession and I admired the rituals that we have to honor the dead. I admired McCain for his honor, dignity, and sense …

Day 39 Cow Patie Camp to Lima (8/30): 38.1 miles/801 ft

Today's route is one of our favorite sections of the Divide. It's along a historic trail, it shows the diversity of the Montana landscape, and it's a beautiful and fun fast ride on well kept gravel roads. 10 miles into the ride and the wide open landscape narrows into a canyon reminiscent of the red …

Day 38 Bannack to Cow Patie Camp (8/29): 48.1 miles/3,639 ft

It was a long day in the saddle but it was a beautiful day, no clouds or rain to worry about. It was wonderful to ride the lonesome Bannack road and Medicine Lodge gravel roads through large cattle operations, cattle grazing and hay growing. There were few cars and the road was in decent shape. …

Day 37 Elk Horn Springs to Bannack (8/28): 24.9 miles/547 ft

After two days rest my engines (legs) were ready to go. Luckily it was an easy short ride to Bannack. It was very cold starting out and I had my cold gear on including leggings. That's unusual for me since I run hot. Wearing my warm gear didn't last long when the sun broke through …

Day 35 and 36 Rain Delay Elk Horn Hot Springs (8/26 – 8/27)

Two down days, what's a rider to do? Soak in the hot springs in the morning and evening, check the weather hourly, take a nap, catch up on reading, stretch, eat but not too much, meet new riders and hikers who arrive, if you're Erika, take a daily hike in the cold and rain, and …

Day 34: Wise River to Elk Horn Springs (8/25): 33.7 miles/2,574 ft

The ride today is one of my favorite sections of the Divide. It's along the FR78 a scenic by way connecting Wise River to Polaris surrounded by National Forrest. There are few cars on the road and the area has changed little from the time the first Settlers arrived (The Native Americans were in this …

Day 33 Butte to Wise River (8/24): 52.4 miles/3,210 ft

Jamie and Liz had a rest day in Butte and we pressed onto Wise River. Wise River is along the Big Hole River, a fly fishing Mecca in the U.S. possibly the world. The river is scenic and is located in a very isolated but one of the most beautiful parts of the state between …

Day 32 Merry Widow to Butte (8/23): 35 miles/2,585 ft

I started my day with a large breakfast at the Silver Saddle Bar and Grille in Basin, MT. I really enjoy going to a local restaurant to hear the chit chat in the morning. This morning I learned about the snow that's expected in the next few days, the rodeo coming to town, and smoke …

Day 31 Helena to Merry Widow Radon Health Mine (8/22): 45.5 miles/3,724 ft

Today we rode in a posse of 8 cyclists. It's nice to ride in a big pack. There are more people to talk to and trade stories with and there is a sense of safety in large numbers. Since we are riding on the freeway having a lot of cyclists is good and are more …

Day 30 Llama Camp to Helena: 27.3miles/783 feet

We rode the alternative route ride today which was very easy because it was very flat. We did not ride the official route because of the possibility of mud due to the rain. I enjoyed the route which passed farms and open spaces. We learned that farmers who raise cows graze their cows on rented …

Day 29 Rain Day Llama Camp: 11.6 miles/533 ft

Since we have been cycling in Montana there has been a series of records in terms of the weather. Record hot days, record days without rain, and record cold days, all within a two week period. Cycling in the hot weather was draining but the reward was swimming in the cold ice melt water. After …

Day 28 Lincoln to Llama Camp (8/19): 24 miles/2,370 feet

Today was a short ride in terms of distance but it featured a big climb up Poormans Creek, a 4.4 mile climb with sustained 10% climbs in the last 1.5 miles. It's one of the steepest climbs on the Divide. The pay off? 7 miles of downhill not peddling required leading to the Bikers Camp …

Day 27 Ovando to Lincoln (8/19): 38.6 miles/2,614

Ovando is sticky and we did not leave until 11:30. Between breakfast, visits, and discussions about the reroute (Trail 467 fire), time just slipped away. 11 miles out of town on a flat route, brought us to the foot of Huckleberry pass, a civilized climb of 8 miles that was not too steep. The name …

Day 26 Seeley Lake to Ovando (8/17): 28 miles/1,771 ft

Ovando is one of my favorite places on the Divide. It's a small town in terms of population, 50 people and 100 dogs. The city has a long history and there are still historic buildings downtown. The city is very much part of the Divide and it's famous among the racers. Kathy owns the Blackfoot …

Day 25 Holland Lake to Seeley Lake (8/16): 33.5 miles/3,079 ft

In the morning it's best to check on the status of your legs before getting on your bike as a pre assessment of your day. A number of factors can influence the condition of your bicycle engine. Sleep amount and quantity, how much water consumed, quality and quantity of food and wether you stretched after …

Day 24 Cedar Creek to Holland Lake (8/15): 36.6 miles/3,152 ft

Today was hot and there was a lot of climbing from the beginning of the ride. We headed through a section of climbs and I decided to check out and turn on some music as inspiration through the section. I passed a tree and saw something black move swiftly out of the corner of my …

Day 23 Flathead Lake to Cedar Creek (8/14): 37.2 miles/3,152 ft

The best campsites have a hiker/biker section with flat purpose built campsites, a bear box for food, a shower, and a pavilion with a table and bench and electrical outlets. Lucky for us in Montana many of the state parks are configuring their parks this way. The policy is to never turn a biker or …

Day 22 Whitefish to Flathead Lake (8/13): 54.2 miles/1,818 ft

Some towns we say are "sticky" meaning they are hard to leave once you arrive and Whitefish is one of those to towns. It has all services for bicyclists, restaurants, excellent coffee, and a hidden gem of an Army Navy surplus. We did not leave town until 11:00 AM when our typical departure is at …

Day 21 Upper Whitefish Lake to Whitefish (8/11): 26.1 miles/741 ft

Many people have asked why we are cycling the Divide for a second time and we do not have an answer. The Divide is a great ride. It's tough, it's picturesque, it has beautiful views, and it's desolate. What struck me is the Divide changes us in a profound ways and it is the reason …

Day 20 Tuchuk to Upper Whitefish Lake (8/11): 36.1 miles/2,117 ft

We set off this morning riding with Jamie and Liz who are great company heading to Upper Whitefish Lake. The ride was mostly down until we began the 7 mile climb to Red Meadow.the climb was not steep just long. At the top of the climb we reached Red Meadows Lake, a beautiful high mountain …

Day 19 Eureka to Tuchuck (8/10): 32 miles/3,406 ft

The ride today was challenging not in the distance but in the amount of climbing that was required. As I remembered it, it was a difficult climb but when we tackled the climbs they were not steep and each climb was not very long. The cumulative of all of the climbs made it seem like …

Day 18 Baynes Lake to Eureka (8/9): 44 miles/ 1,718 ft

I don’t think I have mentioned the weather. It’s hot! 103 today and tomorrow is predicted at 107. What a contrast to our ride two years ago when we rode in the rain and cold, a month earlier than we rode this year but none the less a big difference. While it’s hot it’s nicer …

Day 17 Fernie to Baynes Lake (8/8): 36.4 miles/ 2,258 ft

We left Fernie taking the new route which included 7 miles of single track and 25 miles of dirt. Fernie has mile and miles of single track in the foothills surrounding town. We pumped into a lady and her daughter riding the trails and the lady began to recite the trails from memory. She said …

Day 16 Elkford to Fernie (8/7): 47miles/1,470 ft

The ride today was necessary but not inspiring. We rode the busy highway 93 all the way to Fernie as we did two years ago. It’s a major highway going north and south and it’s heavily traveled by logging and trucks related to the mining industry. Adventure Cycling has mapped out a new route to …

Day 15 Canyon Lakes to Elkford (8/6): 55 miles/1,933 ft

We stayed at the Canyon Lakes camp ground and since the encounter with the grizzly I should have been “bear alert”. However in the safety (false) of the campgrounds I let my guard down. I was walking with my down jacket and hood on going to refill my water bladder when I heard a voice …

Day 15 Canyon Lakes to Elkford (8/6): 55 miles/1,933 ft

We stayed at the Canyon Lakes camp ground and since the encounter with the grizzly I should have been “bear alert”. However in the safety (false) of the campgrounds I let my guard down. I was walking with my down jacket and hood on going to refill my water bladder when I heard a voice …

Day 14 Banff to Canyon Creek (8/5): 50 miles/3,860 ft

I'm not sure where the term "tiger mom" originated to describe a protective mother but I think It would be appropriate in North America to use the term "grizzly bear mom" instead. It's appropriate because it's possible to see a grizzly bear mom in action and the term would have more meaning. Today we saw …

Day 12-13 Banff Rest Days (7/12-7/13)

Tomorrow we officially start the GDMBR. The trip to Jasper and back was a warmup and was meant for us to get acclimated, loosen our legs, and get back into the swing of bike packing. We have been spoiled staying in warm beds in the hostels and having the ability to cook Mac and cheese …

Day 11 Lake Louise to Banff (8/2): 41.8 miles/1,917 ft

The ride to Banff was mostly downhill and we enjoyed long stretches of coasting downhill while looking at the scenery. Along the way we met a woman from Boston on a 7 day cycle tour where her luggage was transported and a sag driver who carried snacks and water. What a nice way to travel! …

Day 10 Mosquito Creek to Lake Louise (8/1): 17.3 miles/390 ft

We saw our first bear jam on the way to Lake Louise. It’s like a buffalo jam in YellowStone except it involves a bear. There was a lady outside of her car about 25 yards away from a small brown Bear. An angry driver laid on his horn until he was able to pass. Luckily …

Day 9 Rampart to Mosquito Creek (7/31): 35.5 miles/2,899 from

Ian was the substitute host at Mosquito Creek. He was a boat navigator but quit his job a year ago to pursue another career. He had a life changing trip to the Yukon and would like to return as a steward of the land working for Parks Canada. He description of the Yukon as a …

Beauty Creek to Rampart Creek Day 8 (7/30): 35.6 miles/2,486 ft

At Beauty Creek we met four cyclists traveling from Jasper to Banff and back. John and Eric from Edmonton and Cam and Vicky from Vancouver. It’s interesting how you can make fast friends while cycle touring. You may be from different countries and backgrounds but the shared interest in cycling is what brings you together. …

Jasper to Beauty Creek Day 7 (7/29): 55 miles/3,033 ft

On the second rest day in Jasper Erika went on a “millions of mosquitos hike”. She wore her rain gear on a hot sunny day to keep them at bay. A normal person would have turned around. I worked on the blog and went for a short hike to the end of the road where …

Rest Day Jasper Day 5 & 6 (7/27 & 7/28)

It’s early on in the trip to take a down day but we had planned it that way. We wanted to spend a few days in Jasper since it was our first time there. Jasper is a small town both in size and population on the north end of the Ice Lakes Parkway. It’s remote …

Day 4 (7/26): Beauty Creek to Jasper. 55.2 miles/1,448 ft

I forgot to mention Tim who we met at Rampart Creek. He lives nearby in Red Deer and volunteers repairing the hostels in Jasper. Tim is bikepacking for the first time. He dropped off food at each hostel and has a feast each night. At Beauty Creek he had a steak and Brussels sprouts. I …

Day 3 (7/25): Rampart Creek to Beauty Creek. 34.6 miles/2,647 ft

At Rampart Creek we met Emilie the mom and Mathilde the daughter from Switzerland. Mathilde 25, speaks French, Dutch, and English and works in Toronto. Emilie has hiked part of the Haute Route (Zermat to Chamonix) and many GRs in Europe. We hope to hike the haute Route next year so we had a good …

Day 2 (7/24): Mosquito Creek to Rampart Creek. 40.5 miles/1,634 ft.

We met an interesting couple from Germany Daniel and His girlfriend who's name I forgot at Mosquito Creek. They work and save money then they are off on an adventure in another country on a work holiday. Previously they were in Australia working and traveling and this year they spent nearly a year in Canada …

Day 1 (7/23): Castle Junction to Mosquito Creek. 31 miles/2,198 ft

We loaded up the shuttle van with bikes, gear, and seven riders and headed to Banff from Whitefish Montana. Cricket the shuttle driver and owner of WBR pointed out places along the way and gave us tips from her years of racing the Divide. Most riders were riding from Banff back to Whitefish. I sat …

17 Hours to Whitefish

The road trip to Whitefish, the first leg of our bike trip, began long before we packed up the one-way rental car and pointed the car north on the road. There were goodbyes some quick and unplanned and others long and emotional. The untwining of things we learned to let go of. There were other …

Gear

Our favorite topic is gear. All gear related to our outdoor pursuits. We love to talk about it, look at it, buy it, and best of all use it.

2018 Divide

Preparing to ride the Divide a second time is not as easy as it would seem. First of all, we bought new bikes. In 2016 we rode Salsa Fargos, sturdy dependable steel framed bikes with carbon forks. Our 2018 Divide bikes are Salsa Cutthroats (Cutty). As the song goes “just one look”, you can tell …

2018 GDMBR Route

2018 GDMBR Key Facts (south bound) - 3,083 miles - 211,455k ft of climbing - Two provinces in Canada and - -Five states in the U.S.